![]() Then the car owner walked up to the car and got in and the motion is missed because of the macroblock being so large. H265 sees that the car isn't moving, so it macroblocks the whole car and surrounding area. In my testing I have one camera that sees a parked car in front of my house. Storage is computed based on multiplying bitrate, FPS, and resolution. But if you need to run the same bitrate for H265 as you do H264, then the storage savings is zero. The only way to get around that is a higher bitrate. But if there is a lot of motion in the image, then it becomes a pixelated mess. In theory H265 is supposed to need half the bitrate because of the macroblocking. H265 takes areas that it doesn't think has motion and makes them into bigger blocks and in doing so lessens the resolution yet increases the CPU demand to develop these larger blocks. The left image is H264, so all the blocks are the same size corresponding to the resolution of the camera. And to my eye and others that I showed clips to and just said do you like video 1 or video 2 better, everyone thought the H264 provided a better image. My savings were less than few minutes per day. In theory it is supposed to need 30% less storage than H264, but most of us have found it isn't that much. However, it also takes more processing power of the already small CPU in the camera and that can be problematic if someone is maxing out the camera and then it stutters. H265 in theory provides more storage as it compresses differently, but part of that compression means it macro blocks big areas of the image that it thinks isn't moving. ![]() The "manual setting is all the way at the bottom of the list of exposure settings.Ĭlick to expand.This will explain H264 versus H265 a little better. It needs to be on manual and then you set a range, say 0.0 to 16.66 (1/60) or 0.0 to 10 (1/100). Using "shuter priority" basically allows the camera to over ride what you set it to. Many people here are doing LPR at 15F/ps and some at even slower frame rates. If you're concerned about clear captures of motion, the only factor that matters is exposure, shutter, speed. 15F/ps gives the CPU a break, lower utilization, and saves a fair amount of disk space, as in 50% when compapred to 30F/ps. Hollywierd productions are filmed at 24F/ps and surveillance certainly isn't a Hollwierd production. Additionally, the frame and iframe rates need to match in both the main and sub stream for BI to work properly with sub streams. If you are using sub streams that will mess things up. Blue Iris works best with H264 incidentally, and from your screen shot you didn't set the sub stream to H264. I am not using hardware acceleration so, if you are, that may be a problem. ![]() I'm running five 5442s all at H264, 15F/ps, iframe of 15, bit rate at 10240 and have zero problems with it. I find it amazing that you have problem with H264 encoding. Simply log into the IP of the camera and make all adjustments directly. Herein we provide you the reset tool which can run in your computer to reset the camera locally.Why are you using an Amcrest utility to adjust a Dahua camera? While Amcrest is OEM Dahua they strip out too much. To the cameras don’t have the reset button design, you have to use the utilities or software provided by manufacturer to reset. Some advanced IP cameras and consumer Wi-Fi cameras have the reset button design, simply press and hold the reset button up to 5 seconds, the camera will be reset. If you happen to forget the password, you may want to know how to reset the camera. To avoid this happening, you may write done the password after complete the setup. On the other hand, people are prone to forget the password of the device. On the one hand, it is vulnerable to online hacking due to requiring the Internet connection. ![]() ![]() IP cameras are so popular for security and video surveillance applications. ![]()
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